Posts Tagged ‘Relay Harness’

Are you wondering how to use the HID Harness with your V-HIDS headlight conversion kit? I want to cover a cool feature that comes standard with every “single beam” V-HIDS kit we offer. This feature allows for quick plug-n-play installation of the HID Harness and other accessories your car may need.

H11 HID bulb and Input Adapter Jumper

The feature that I am talking about is what I refer to as the “Input Adapter Jumper”. The picture to the right shows the jumper wires as they come in the kit, attached to the HID bulb. They are routed through a rubber grommet with the HID bulbs wiring. This is so you can route them into your headlight housing and keep a water tight seal if you have sealed-back headlights. This input adapter jumper has as a male 9006 connector on one end and the specific end of the bulb type of the kit on the other end, this one happens to be an H11. This allows for a direct connection from your cars headlight socket to the input connector of the HID harness.

Connection of the Adapter to the HID Harness

Input Connector of the HID Harness

The HID Harness has a single input connector shown here. It is a female 9006 plug. This is where you connect the adapter to the HID Harness. Here is another bonus to this setup. If your car is equipped with a warning light that indicates you have a burnt out headlight and you need to install an inline capacitor or inline resistor you’re in luck. These parts come with male and female 9006 connectors too. So if you need any additional parts to get your V-HIDS kit working they will plug right into this setup without any modification to your cars wiring harness.



Here we see the 9006_INLINE_RES,   INLINE_CAP_ADAPT and the 9006_DRL_MODULE. Each one is designed for different applications. I will be covering these applications in the future. In the following pictures you can see how easy it is to install them inline. Using the 9006 style connectors allows adding these parts to this setup to be quick and easy. A complete wiring schematic for the HID_HARNESS is at the bottom of the page too.

9006_INLINE_RES Installed

If you do have any application questions feel free to ask. You can email me direct at:


Thanks for reading, James the

Here are links to other articles that contain additional information on some of these products:



9006_DRL_MODULE Installed

Installation Diagram For HID_HARNESS

Installation Diagram For HID_HARNESS

Not too many ask this question but I seem to remind a lot of people that they should re-aim their headlights after they install an HID kit. Aiming your lights may seem like a difficult task, but is relatively simple once you understand how to do it. There are a few different resources that I have found useful online and they all follow the same procedure. We will cover this procedure shortly, but first I want to help you understand why this should be taken into consideration.

The first reason that I suggest re-aiming your lights is for safety. Properly adjusted headlights keep you from blinding oncoming traffic. The halogen bulbs you just replaced are about 1/3 as bright as the HID kit you just installed. Your lights may have been out of alignment before, but they were dimmer and it may have not been that noticeable. (if you had to remove your headlight housings during installation you will definitely need to adjust the height and direction of your headlights) But now that you have HIDs installed you are going to notice a difference, and so is everyone else on the road. Whether they were aimed down too low or up too high, properly aligning your headlights will maximize your investment and keep you safe.

Lets move on to the how. A Google search of “headlight adjustment” will bring up a ton of information. I have read through a lot of articles and they all point to the same measurements and distances for properly aligning your headlights. I have assembled what I think is a simple guide to do this. Important things to consider before starting this are: Is your gas tank full? Is your trunk (if it’s a car) or bed (if it’s a truck) full of heavy stuff?(groceries, golf clubs, bricks, wood, sand bags, water bottles etc) Are your tires aired up to the correct pressure? It sounds small but remember that if your car or truck is squatting in the front or rear while you align the lights, your lights will be pointing a different direction when you unload this stuff!

The Following guide is for reference only. I am not citing any DOT laws or claiming that this guide abides by any laws that pertain to your local State or Province. I am simply helping you help me, as I find myself continually blinded by headlights that are aimed incorrectly.

This first illustration shows 2 different distances that you can work with. Choose one of these distances for your car to be from a flat vertical surface (a wall). The diagram on the left is the optimal distance for this procedure. If you do not have that much space to work with you can use the diagram on the right.  Keep in mind that your car needs to be square to this surface and on a level area. You can use the side of a building or your garage door as long your car is on a level surface.

Lets start with measuring out the wall. You will need to use some masking tape to mark these measurements out on the wall. You will need to measure the distance from the ground to the center of the headlight assembly. This is your H Line. Use the masking tape to mark these measurements on the wall. Now locate and mark the center of your car on the wall. This is your V Line. Next measure the distance between the center of your car and the headlights. These are your V RH and V LH lines. Every car is different and these measurements must come from your specific car. When you are done with the measuring and taping your wall should end up with a pattern that looks like this illustration. The dark lines represent the masking tape. The V stands for Vertical, the H stands for Horizontal and the RH and LH represent Left Hand Side and Right Hand Side.

Before we get to aiming your lights you will need to locate the adjustment screw. From my personal experience each cars  headlight has a different style of adjuster screw. If you are having a tough time locating your cars adjustment screw consult your vehicle manual. There should be 2 adjustments per headlight. One is for vertical (up and down) adjustments and the other is for horizontal (side to side) adjustments.

Now its time to turn on your lights. Aim your lights one at a time so there is no interference from the other headlight. (you can disconnect the 12 volt power supply to the HID ballast that is not being aimed to turn it off) This illustration is split into the same 2 distances from before. This illustration has measurements listed as guidelines only. Every car is different and these measurement should be used as a reference point only. Not every car has a distinct cut off line like this illustration shows, but you should see something similar. Above the line should be dark, and it should be very bright underneath. Use the adjustment screws to align your lights as close to this as possible. Perform this for both sides of the car and you’re done. Now its time for the test. When it gets dark go for a drive. How are your lights? Are they too low, or too high now? Can you see better? Are people still flashing their lights at you? From here you can make minor tweaks to the adjustments to dial it in perfectly. This illustration shows measurements for high beams as well. Depending on your car you may be able to adjust them separately from the low beams. If your car has separate adjustments than you can adjust your high beams too. All you have to do is add additional V LH and V RH lines for them and adjust them according to the diagram as well.

The main point to focus on while aiming your lights is to keep them pointed no higher then the headlight assemblies. If your car is lowered your lights won’t reach as far. Remember if you aim them up just a little bit it may be fine at 100 ft. but at 1000 ft. they may be pointing at the tops of trees.  If you you have a lifted truck you may need to aim them down a bit to keep from blinding people too. Just keep that in mind and everyone driving towards you will be happy.

On another note, remember what each set of your lights are for. Your low beams are you main source of light. They are designed to illuminate the ground in front of your car and shouldn’t cast light out too far. Your high beam lights allow you to see beyond the reach of your low beams. And fog lights are designed to illuminate the sides of the road and just in front of your car. Think of them as tools to help you see. You wouldn’t use a hammer to drive in a screw would you? Or a screw driver to drive in a nail? So don’t use your fog lights as low beams, or your low beams as high beams, or your high beams as search lights. Use the correct tool for the job!

Thanks for reading. I appreciate any feedback. Feel free to leave a comment or email me directly if you have any concerns or questions regarding this guide. My email is:

James, the

Do you own a Lexus IS? Do you have questions about upgrading your DRL to V-LEDS? Are you confused about what is needed and cannot find a straight answer? I am going to go over all the information that is necessary when purchasing our IS DRL KIT.

Lets cover the history behind V-LEDS’ solution(s) for upgrading this cars DRL. This should answer some questions. It started when the owner of V-LEDS purchased his 2007 IS 350. Naturally he wanted to change every bulb in the car to V-LEDS. When it came time to change the DRL to LED he found an interesting problem. First he found that the LEDs would flicker. Second he noticed that they were not as bright as they should be. We received reports from other Lexus owners who had the same problem.

What causes the flicker?  The flickering on the LEDs is caused by “pulses” of power on the DRL circuit. The DRL system in the 2nd GEN IS runs at a fluctuating voltage ranging from +3 volts to +6 volts. It basically cycles up and down at a fast rate. This prolongs the life of a Halogen bulb running at low voltage. The filament of the halogen bulb does not show this as flickering; it regulates this cycling into about a +4.5 volt constant voltage. Our LEDs on the other hand react quickly enough to changes in voltage. As the LEDs react to the changing voltage they look like they are flickering.

Why aren’t they bright? Because the DRL system operates at such a low voltage the LEDs will not be as bright as they should be. The LEDs need to have at least +12 volts to be as bright as we advertise them to be.

V-LEDS came up with a solution for the problems we experienced. The solution is our DRL Module. This part fixed the problem. It made for an easy plug and play installation that required no modification to the car or headlight housing. This, combined with a pair of 9005 LED Bulbs was the first IS DRL KIT we offered. (*please note that the original IS DRL KIT package is no longer available)

Fast forward to now. Im sure you have questions as to why we sell a relay harness with the new IS DRL KIT. As a company, V-LEDS is committed to engineering the brightest and highest quality LEDs available on the market. The LEDs that were included with the first IS DRL KIT have been replaced with a new, brighter design. After bringing this product to market we found that it was overloading the DRL circuit when used with our DRL Module. It would blow the DRL fuse immediately when connected. The solution for this is the LED Relay Harness. It requires more work, but it is a better, reliable solution. We have put this kit together so you have an option of upgrading the lights on your car. The big red flag that seems to get waived is that you have to drill a hole in the bulb cover of your headlight assembly. Yes this is true, and I understand the concerns of dust and moisture being able to get into the light housing. Before we completed the installation (drilling of the hole) in our car here we drove around for a long time without the covers on at all. We live in Washington state, it rains here, a lot, and we did not have any moisture problems.

Here are some photos from the installation process that show what is needed for drilling and wire routing.

I drilled a 3/8″ hole in the cover. I chose this location as it was not directly behind the bulb. I took this into consideration as it could interfere with the fitment of the wires after they are routed into the headlight housing. I made the hole in the exact spot on both sides as the headlight  assemblies are symmetrical mirrors of each other.

The plug ends need to be removed to route the wires through the cover. Question for you: Do you think the kit should come with the plugs removed so that they just need to be installed after this step? Inserting the pins into the plugs is straight forward. It would make it easier to not have to remove the pins first.

This is the drivers side after the wire has been routed through the cover and the pins installed into the plug ends. The wire loom fits very snug in the hole and should repel moisture and dust.

This is the passenger side. Note that there are 4 wires on this side. One connector is the same as the drivers side. The other connector is the input trigger for the relay in the harness. This is where the DRL Module will be connected. The cars DRL plug will plug into the input of the DRL Module. The DRL Module will stay inside the housing behind the cover.

Finish up the remaining connections of the Relay harness. (Battery and Ground) and secure the wiring looms with the factory harnesses. The LED Relay Harness was designed with longer wire lengths and a single ground connector for ease of installation.

I do see a need for improvement in regards to an installation guide. We are working on an instructional video that will show the entire installation process. The video will not be ready in the immediate future, but its coming soon. Also we are in the process of finding a different solution to routing the wires through the bulb cover. Currently this kit is not a quick and easy dunk of an install, but if you give yourself adequate time where you are not rushed it will go smoothly. We are working on improving/simplifying some of the steps required to get this done. If you have suggestions on an area that you feel can be improved, please send me an email directly at I take all opinions into consideration when working on special projects like this.

This can also be used to power an HID kit for DRL and High beams as the Relay harness can handle the power draw of  the ballasts.

Thanks for taking the time to read this over. I hope it answers any questions you may have about upgrading your DRLs. Feel free to leave a comment or email me.

James, the

I get asked this question a lot. I will always answer this question with another question that leads into a conversation. I am going to try get all this information out of my head and onto this page. I’ll try not to bore you with math or super detailed information. I just want to cover the basics, so here we go.

First things first, What is the application? What location are you installing the HIDs? Low Beams? High Beams? Fog lights? Replacing a stock DRL? (Daytime Running Light)

In most cases you can just plug the HID Ballast directly into your car or trucks headlight socket. Depending on how your car or truck is wired and if it is equipped automatic light controls you can get different results. I have heard the idea that the headlights pull power directly through the headlight switch itself. The added initial power consumption of HIDs will then, over time, burn out your switch which is expensive to replace. If your car was manufactured pre-1980 you may need to heed this warning. But if you own a newer car it most likely has a dedicated, fused headlight circuit starting at a relay. This also applies to your High Beams and Fog Lights.

Note before that I stated a “Fused Headlight Circuit“. This is why we offer an HID Relay Harness. What amperage is the fuse rated for your light circuit? 10 Amp? 15 Amp? 20 Amp? Every vehicle manufacturer designs the light circuit around a specified wattage of the bulb being powered. If the HIDs draw more power than that bulb you will most likely blow the fuse that is protecting the circuit. Some guys just throw the next size bigger fuse in and it works, is that safe? NO, not really. Consider that the gauge of the wiring used is calculated for the draw of the Halogen bulb you just replaced and for the original size fuse that kept blowing. IF you choose to just up the size of the fuse you may end up with a melted wiring harness! Or worse yet, an electrical FIRE! Instead you should install an HID  Relay Harness. It uses the cars light socket to click over a relay and this allows power to be pulled directly from the battery via sufficient gauge wire and a proper size fuse for HID Ballasts to operate.

Does your car or truck have automatic lights? Does your car use this circuit as a low voltage DRL? If you answered YES to either of these questions I would recommend using an HID Relay Harness.

The “Auto Lights” feature on cars will turn your lights on as soon as you turn the key to the Ignition Position. When you crank the engine over all accessories including your lights will turn off. After the engine starts and you let the key go back to the Ignition position the lights will come back on. This will cause misfires from the voltage dipping when it cuts out. In most cases the Relay Harness will correct this problem.

The “DRL” poses more than one problem. Depending on the operating voltage of the DRL will depict if you need more than just an HID Relay Harness. If you can test the voltage with a test meter and it shows a voltage of 6.5 Volts or greater you can use just the HID Relay Harness. If the voltage is less than 6.5 Volts you can use one of our DRL_MODULES. The DRL_ MODULE is my best friend when it comes to finding a solution for low voltage issues. It is essentially a power booster. It will take as little as 3 Volts and bump it all the way up to 14 Volts! You can install this between the light socket and the input of the Relay Harness and voilà! Now you have enough voltage to click over your HID Relay Harness. A properly installed  HID Relay Harness will fix most problems before you ever experience them. It’s a small price and adds a little extra install time, but I like a little peace of mind.

Thanks for reading, feel free to leave a comment or ask a question. You can contact me via email directly here too: